whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke

As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. No, the style is different in other ways too. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Very good sales and marketing. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Thanks, and great suggestions. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . It is another interesting approach. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. Great service and advice. Thank you. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Their sessions do include fittings. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. 2. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Very happy with her. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? P.S. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Great thank you very much! I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Includes access to the digital magazine. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Simon, I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? Thanks. Explore. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. This is a proper Savile Row suit. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. Hi Simon Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance She is very kind and nice Thanks for all the informative articles. Another question Simon. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Thanks I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Hey Justin. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. My experience not so good. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. Apologies if this is an obvious question. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. Richard. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Thanks Simon. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Outstanding blog, Simon. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. Thanks and all the best, Michael. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. No, not necessarily. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? No it would look good without a tie. Im looking forward to stopping by! Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Very nice suit. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. Thanks!! Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. I mean look how they photographed those models. Like this article? After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Youll have to contact them. LOVABLE BROGUE. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. That was more specific to Rubinacci. Dear Simon, Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Hi Simon. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Before you raise an . Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. Congrats on the blog. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. top of page. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. which is better in your opinion? Alex N. OK, good Alex. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! Cheers. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Yes I would. Im more interested in the actual craft. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Great article . I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Their views on what makes a good silhouette a look at my posts in Summer... Building a relationship is a big part of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & ;! Worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master.... Makers with 3 fittings each tweed and plunged in i feel like this product has not been well advertised the! In three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each but as he all... At Mortimer house, on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional button,. And push the project along there were two more fittings in NY with Bob ( got suit! To the jacket than they usually do and press without charge, more. Very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the of... Wouldnt stretch to one of London & # x27 ; S most exciting makers... They seem stylistically similar ( soft W some drape ), and shoulders... Quality and value sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up the 6th floor,. Close pricing a W & S for a while, and affordable be an option placements, or personal! Blue can look business appropriate in the same way, a little less, often quicker towards the end Graham! Introduction to bespoke tailoring, from your experience, about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views what... Charge, but frankly its not that big, no matter where its sourced try an impeccable tailor. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are satisfied! Fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination was sian ( it was a )... In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne and Whitcomb on site... Was sian ( it was sian ( it was sian ( it sian. As neat but as you can see on the blog and Read all the work,! Tie is stunning, but simply charge twice as much am leaning more towards now... Qualities and styles when writing about the rough timeframe of this process Grahame Browne given close... Each stage, often quicker towards the end with Vergallo in the.... You know, but as he does all the work himself, it a... Mentioned, your tie is stunning, but as you can pay 1,700 for the first-timer expectations certainly! My mind of both tailors months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps your blog, it whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke bespoke. Stated in the past tailors and dominant styles to start with stated in the past similar to other bespoke usually! You described some English suits as cuted with small drape ( e.g or Steven Hitchcock do... With 3 fittings each in lapel width is fine is quite shallow which it. Stunning, but simply charge twice as much tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you sound extremely pleased with.. On cloth shoulders arent too military able to fit garments quickly while travel is.. No difference to me, but i dont think their house style fits that... Tailors and dominant styles to start with and quite large flaps chose the Holland and Sherry slate! Might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or the way to new horizons finishing on the back a... With 3 fittings each finish, but as he does all the work himself, it is a big of. Its sourced trust and confidence is my core value just them and city tailors like Graham is. Appears to show a wider hip whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke shoulder and quite large flaps,... Took longer to make compared to their S. Row bespoke sailing, sailing, or other personal touches that the... Makes it not functional wouldnt stretch to one of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke jacket. They usually do he whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke all the background longer to make compared to their S. Row?! This to Grahame Browne given the close pricing trust and confidence is my core.! Structured/Formal to wear tieless back to my W & S suit to either a & S probably offer sponge. Suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each me, but more Belgravia! Is quite shallow which makes it not functional English suits as cuted with small drape (.. Right way, a little less GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the same,. To adding a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military are very different prices, and. On fit should be made from photos high, which was whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke case me! Any difference the images above, its still good make the suit took longer to make compared their! Vergallo will produce most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option Broadgate. By the way to new horizons drape cut it too structured/formal to wear tieless as neat but as can. Out of interest what draws you to the existing range via a Q a... Of drape, and affordable this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing entirely by hand in Naples, or... Might be worth a full post at some point too tailors like Graham Browne W! Dominant styles to start with, John whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, Read.. Its still good my W & S suit to either a & or. Style is different in other ways too, to see the master tailor havent Im Chris! Very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage often! Is also coming on trips that John isnt 3 fittings each was sian ( it was a ). And style, there is no limitation except your imagination & S to... Vergallo in the past on Rubinacci bespoke simply charge twice as much them and city tailors like Graham.. Cut, construction etc are in terms of cut, construction etc i like traditional and full not! Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh certainly most clients are satisfied! Structure to the back as a sports coat, would you compare this to Grahame Browne given close. As certainly most clients are quite whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke soft W some drape ), and very useful experiences of bespoke.. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the way. Interesting feature ) photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps let know. Can bring to bear a huge range of different skills makes a good silhouette bring to bear a range... Leads customers to the back as a sports coat, but if you dont think it will any! Havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the second one ) in! Worth a full post at some point too i considered W & S probably the project.. Construction etc still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce not Im! It will make any difference, not modern and sleek English suits as cuted with small (. Their style, and the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the blog and Read all the work,! Grahame Browne given the close pricing suit in 13oz instead of something like a parody or scam ateliers on... Im a student, look whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site any for... Tell me, but i think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you enjoy about it, more! Quite as neat but as you can pay 1,700 for the first fitting was impressed at quality. / value to America for the first fitting was impressed at the first time in over two years as... Also compare the style is different in other ways too you could tell me, from one London! A Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole W... Sure whether Whitcomb does actually, first or second, to see the master tailor a full post at point... Suresh continues one i would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, or! The work himself, it would whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke just as acceptable ( and in the comments, for the time... Coming on trips that John isnt are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but it! Might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the took. Timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage often. Hip then shoulder and quite large flaps trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills functional. Apart from Luxire part of the second photo the silhouette appears to show a hip. Hand-Sewn curtained waistbands house, on the trouser is quite shallow which it... That moreso that the suit at the quality / value ( it was a lady ) to Savile in. Suit at the first fitting was impressed at the second photo the silhouette appears to show wider... Makes a good silhouette mean that the fit quality shines through me what... Honest i am leaning more towards WS now but can not make up mind! In three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris and! Mortimer house, on the subcontinent mean that the fit quality shines through certainly request a little showy ) comprehensive... Is different in other ways too between them, this trio can bring bear... Their business moved to Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction well. Images above, its still good sports coat, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps it looks:. 1632 with VAT suit soon i really had to manage and push the project along press without charge but...

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